Chinese cuisine splits into eight schools: Lu (Shandong), Chuan (Sichuan), Yue (Guangdong), Su (Jiangsu), Min (Fujian), Zhe, Xiang (Hunan) and Hui - each with a distinct character.

Chuan: famous for numbing spice - mapo tofu, kung pao chicken, boiled fish; ask for mild if you are sensitive.

Yue: values original freshness - white cut chicken, steamed fish, roast goose; dim sum (shrimp dumplings, siu mai) is a must.

Lu: savoury and rich - sweet-sour carp, scallion sea cucumber; best in Qingdao and Jinan.

Su: refined and elegant - squirrel mandarin fish, lion head meatballs; Huaiyang cuisine stars at state banquets.

Xiang: fragrant and fiery - chopped pepper fish head, pepper stir-fried pork; "spicier" than Sichuan.

Min/Zhe/Hui: Min loves soup (Buddha Jumps Wall), Zhe is light (West Lake fish), Hui prizes fire skill (stinky mandarin fish).

Ordering: two people - one meat, one veg, one soup; say "bú yào là" and most kitchens will oblige.