High-speed rail is fast, but overnight sleeper trains remain popular: you save a hotel night and wake up in a new city. Hard sleepers and soft sleepers are the two main types.

Hard sleepers have 22 open berths in three tiers (upper, middle, lower) with a pillow and thin duvet - the best value. Soft sleepers are four-person lockable cabins with wider beds, slippers and a kettle - ideal if you want quiet rest.

Book on the official 12306 app (English version available) or Ctrip/Trip.com. The lower berth is most convenient but gets sat on; the upper is cheapest. For long overnight trips, choose soft sleeper or a D-train sleeper.

On board: lights go off around 22:00 and on at 06:00; attendants announce stops. Put luggage on the overhead rack or under the bunk, keep valuables with you.

The dining car serves simple hot food, or buy bread and fruit before boarding. Bring earplugs and an eye mask - tunnels and foot traffic make noise.

Riding a sleeper train is the most authentic way to understand "people on the road" in China.