China is the homeland of tea with countless varieties: green (Longjing, Biluochun), black (Keemun), oolong (Tieguanyin, Dahongpao), white and dark (pu-erh).

Drinking styles differ: Fujian and Guangdong favour gongfu cha - small pot, tiny cups, repeated infusions, savouring the return sweetness. Sichuan loves the gaiwan - one brew, one drink, utterly relaxed.

Tasting: smell first, look at the colour, then sip slowly. Good tea is smooth and leaves a sweet aftertaste. Water temperature matters: around 80 degrees for green tea, rolling boil for pu-erh.

Tea and society: offering tea is a mark of respect; "yicha daijiu" (tea instead of wine) covers occasions where drinking is unsuitable. Teahouses are a Chinese daily ritual.

Where to try: Longjing Village in Hangzhou, Chengdu teahouses, Chaozhou gongfu shops; city tea stores often offer free tastings before you buy.

Remember: expensive does not equal right - the best tea is the one you enjoy.