Hutongs are Beijing alleys formed by siheyuan courtyard houses; the oldest are over 700 years old.
Courtyard layout: rooms face a central yard, with seniors in the main hall and juniors in the wings - mirroring family hierarchy; most courtyards now house several families.
Hutong life: morning bird-walking and chess, afternoon sunning; the corner shop and breakfast stall anchor daily life. Doorstep drums carved with lions or clouds show the family standing.
Where to wander: Nanluoguxiang (lively but commercial), Wudaoying (artistic shops), Shijia Hutong (old architecture), Beiluoguxiang (quiet and local); shared bikes make lane-hopping easy.
Experience: sleep in a courtyard guesthouse, eat zhajiang noodles, douzhi and luzhu; watermelon stalls at alley mouths define summer.
Preservation: rickshaw "hutong tours" and shops have multiplied, but most hutongs are still real neighbourhoods - respect residents privacy when photographing.