Pingyao Ancient City in central Shanxi, built around 1370 in the early Ming, is the most complete ancient county town in China - a UNESCO site since 1997.
City walls: a full circuit of 6.4 km lets you walk above and overlook the town, with barbicans, watchtowers and corner towers intact.
Shanxi banking: Pingyao was the financial centre of Qing China; the Rishengchang Exchange House was the first bank in China - "remittance under heaven" started here.
How to explore: South Street (Ming-Qing Street) is the main drag; the county office stages court performances, Xie Tong Qing shows the underground vault, and the escort museum tells the guard story; the 125-yuan pass covers 22 sights.
Staying: old courtyard houses inside the wall have been turned into guesthouses with heated-brick rooms; modern hotels lie beyond the wall.
Food: Pingyao beef, wantuo, kaolaolao (oat rolls) and Shanxi aged vinegar (a great souvenir).
