The Mogao Caves, cut into the east cliffs of Mingsha Mountain near Dunhuang, Gansu, were begun in 366 AD and worked through ten dynasties to the Yuan. With 735 caves, 45,000 square metres of murals and over 2,400 painted sculptures, it is the largest treasury of Buddhist art in existence.
Highlights: Cave 96 (the Nine-Storey Tower) with its 35.5-metre giant Buddha; the colossal reclining Buddha of Cave 158; Cave 257 Jataka of the Nine-Coloured Deer mural (the basis of the classic Chinese animation); and Cave 17, the Library Cave that yielded more than 50,000 documents.
Visiting: booking is compulsory, entry is in guided groups, and about 10-12 caves open per tour (A-type tickets include a digital theatre plus 8 physical caves). No photography inside - the murals are light-sensitive.
Around Dunhuang: Singing Sand Dunes and Crescent Lake (camel rides, sunsets), Yumen Pass and the Yardang Ghost City - together a 2-3 day itinerary.
Best May-October; the desert is dry with big temperature swings - sun protection and wind and sand gear are a must.
