West Lake in Hangzhou is China most celebrated lake and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It wins not by grandeur but by the gentle Jiangnan charm of "beautiful in light makeup or heavy".

The first of the Ten Scenes is Spring Dawn at Su Causeway: a 3-km dike built under the Northern Song poet Su Shi, lined with willows and peach blossoms in spring, perfect for cycling or walking.

Three Pools Mirroring the Moon sits mid-lake - the three stone pagodas appear on the 1-yuan banknote. Leifeng Pagoda is famous through the Legend of the White Snake, offering panoramas from the top; Broken Bridge after snow is a classic winter image.

Ways to tour: cycle the lake (15-30 yuan/hour), take a boat (55-70 yuan), or walk the shore. The lake itself is free.

Combine with nearby Lingyin Temple, Longjing Village and Songcheng theme park for a full day.

West Lake changes with seasons and hours: Su Causeway in spring, lotus breezes in summer, osmanthus in autumn, snow in winter - it never disappoints.