The qipao was born in 1920s Shanghai, blending the high collar and knotted buttons of Manchu banner dress with the fitted waist and side slits of Western tailoring - often called the calling card of Oriental aesthetics.

Classic features: the stand-up collar, hand-knotted pankou buttons, the diagonal closure, a fitted waist, high slits, and fabrics of silk and brocade patterned with flowers, dragons and landscapes.

Golden age: 1930s-40s Shanghai socialites made the qipao an icon; Maggie Cheung 23 qipaos in In the Mood for Love re-fired global fascination.

Today: the qipao is the go-to formalwear for weddings, galas and graduations, appears on international runways, and looser everyday versions win over younger wearers.

Custom-made: heritage ateliers in Shanghai (Longfeng Qipao), Suzhou and Beijing tailor one to measure for 2,000-10,000 yuan, ready in two weeks to a month - an unforgettable travel keepsake.