Cantonese call morning tea tan cha - literally to enjoy tea. Around 9-10 a.m., venerable teahouses fill with chatter: a pot of tea, a few bamboo baskets of dim sum, and a newspaper or phone, for two or three unhurried hours.
Must-order list: har gow (translucent shrimp dumplings), siu mai, chicken feet in black-bean sauce, tripe, cheung fun (rice rolls), char siu bao (barbecue-pork buns), egg tarts and ma lai go. Two to four pieces per basket - made for sharing.
One pot, two pieces is the classic formula: a pot of tea (pu-erh, tieguanyin or chrysanthemum) plus two baskets of dim sum. The old trolley-callers are fading; most places now take orders by checklist.
Tea rituals: the first steep rinses your cup and bowl; pour for elders first; when someone pours for you, tap two fingers on the table twice to say thanks - the signature Cantonese finger tap.
Morning tea suits every budget, 30-150 yuan per person. In Guangzhou try Tao Tao Ju or Dian Dou De; in Hong Kong, Lin Heung and Luk Yu.
