People who fear cold avoid winter; travelers who know, fly north on purpose. The Harbin-Changbai Mountain 6-day route is the best way to experience China's ice-and-snow world, at its peak from December to February.

Days 1-2, Harbin: the Ice and Snow World's giant illuminated sculptures (most magical after dark), Madier ice pops and guobaorou (sweet-sour pork) on Central Street, and Saint Sophia Cathedral in the snow.

Days 3-4, Changbai Mountain: about 6-7 hours by bus and train. See Heaven Lake from the north slope — frozen mirror-smooth in winter — soak in volcanic hot springs, and ski at the Wanda or Luneng resorts.

Day 5, Yanbian: Yanji, the Korean-culture capital, for naengmyeon (cold noodles), barbecue and rice wine, plus the morning water market.

Day 6, return: direct flights from Yanji Chaoyangchuan Airport. Winter gear is non-negotiable: down jacket, slip-proof boots, hat and gloves — indoor/outdoor temperature gaps can reach 40°C.